Wednesday, December 31, 2008

Glückliches Neues Jahr, Everybody!


Seems like everytime I look back on the year that was, I always ask for a do-over. Nope, not this year-- let's get this one over with, and move on to bigger and better things. Happy New Year everybody-- may 2009 bring you all of your resolutions fulfilled, good luck, good fortune and splendid health.

Tuesday, December 30, 2008

Small Selection


Much like coffee shops in Seattle, Nuremberg is able to pull off multiple bookstores that are all very close together-- and all of them are doing just fine. Within about 200 yards there are 4 bookstores on one of Nuremberg's main shopping streets, the Karolinenstrasse, each with its own vibe and specialty. The English-speaking expat community here is fairly small but vocal, so each of these stores has a section of varying size to cater to the Englisch (as it's written in German), mostly bestsellers and the like, but a couple skew towards the classics as well.

Jakob Buchhandlung, the true bookworm's hangout in the area reminds me of a very organized Shakespeare & Co., the notorious Paris bookstore. As much as I like going there (the walls are covered with fascinating old photos and maps of the area), Jakob's English section seems like an afterthought, located as it is off to the side of a busy corridor, and its shelf space covers perhaps 10 feet x 10 feet in size. While it does have an intriguing selection, it is also hopelessly tiny. Which brings us to this photo (click on photo for a larger view): This is a sliver of the store's "S" authors section. I defy anybody to find another bookstore in the world that has Antoine de Saint-Exupéry's children's classic The Little Prince next to Salinger's Catcher in the Rye , next to Charles Schultz' Snoopy 2 in 1 Collection.

Road Trip: Bamberg & Munich





After the exhaustion and anticipation regarding our apartment move-in (update: The kitchen countertop and cabinets won't be installed until January 13), we had to keep our cabin fever in check-- there was far too much going on here to go road tripping, and we still haven't checked out all Nuremberg has to offer. But with an enforced-- by German law-- vacation period for B and a lull in the construction visits, we decided to check out this here Germany place on a couple day trips.

First off was the city of Bamburg, a UNESCO World Heritage site, owing to its near-intact status (as opposed to destroyed in the war and rebuilt, or new construction posing as old construction). We went on something informally called "the castle road" for a little while which was a winding slow trip through the countryside... with no castles. Hmmm, somebody needs to have the Rick Steves' truth squad look into that-- mind you we weren't on the route all that long. Earliest references of Bamberg date to the 900's, and it's a very nice town indeed. While we went to the equally old and well-preserved city of Rothenberg back in August, I prefer Bamburg-- Rothenburg, for all of its positives tends to come across as an aggressive tourist trap-- think of Colonial Williamsburg with chain mail. No, Bamberg seems to strike the happy medium between working modern city while keeping its well-preserved heritage. We had a late start to the day, so we got there near dusk and marched straight up (up, and up) to its most prominent landmark, the 12th century Michaelsberg monastery on one of the seven hills that surrounds the city. It was in the low-30's when we attemped this, but the good workout was all worth it when we got these great pictures. By the time we got back down to the city proper, it was REALLY cold and dark, so a local dinner at the hipster restaurant frequented by the local university students, and we were on our way back home, but not before we got lost leaving-- yes Virginia, in-car GPS devices don't know when the bridge is out. A few wrong turns later we got straightened out and were back home in 45 minutes. We'll definitely be back.

The following day we went to Munich specifically to see the Deutsches Museum, the European equivalent of the Smithsonian. Hate to say it, but it is all sort of a blur right now. We got up early to catch the earliest train permissible, and it only took 1:46 station-to-station. The Museum was exactly 3 subway stops away (and the subway system connects with the train station), so all we had to do was go downstairs and hop the next U-Bahn, then walk 300 yards to get to the place. Quite impressive-- mix up Chicago's awesome Museum of Science & Industry with Seattle's (Boeing) Museum of Flight, add a pinch of NYC's Museum of Natural History and you're almost there. The place was a zoo however-- lots of folks seemed to have the same idea and took the whole family (bored teenagers too!) along. By 3:00 and after hours of walking through authentic-looking mineshafts, futzing around with Guttenberg printing presses, exploring a recreation of caveman-era dwellings, and enjoying close-ups of all manner of ancient sailing vessels, spacecraft and airplanes we were pooped, and finally took our leave at 4:00-- plenty of time to make our 5:06 train back. We then had the it-was-a-bright-idea-at-the-time to walk back to the train station in 28-degree weather. Now, maybe I'm just an ol' country boy from Nuremberg (population 500,000), but the Munich sidewalks and thoroughfares were utterly packed, probably the densest I've seen in a long time-- mind you, I've been to/lived in New York, DC, Los Angeles, Boston, etc., but this was... really starting to tick me off. We made it back in time alright, but the experience left a negative impression of an otherwise great world city-- I expect that it was a function of everybody being on vacation more than anything else. Finally, a word on European trains: they are some of the cheapest and efficient ways to get from one city to another, and often faster than going by car. We purchased a single "Bayern" (Bavaria) ticket for 28 Euros, and that is good for same-day round trips of up to 5 people (!) per ticket anywhere in Bavaria, plus all surface/local transport (bus, subway) when in the city-- a hell of a deal. Unfortunately, no pictures-- even though we had the "good" camera with us, it was too crowded wherever we went, and I believe we suffered a bit of sensory overload. Sorry everybody-- I have to go back to Munich in February for a work thing, so maybe I'll get a few pics at that time. And we'll also be back to take in the sights of the Munich rather than just one overcrowded destination as well.

Thursday, December 25, 2008

Fröhliche Weihnachten, Y'all!


Wowsers, is this going out late-- it's 1:11am on the 26th here in Europe, but still around Christmas Dinner time on the East Coast, so we're not too late in expressing our sentiments. After the last great push to clean the place up and move all the furniture in (I swear, we are singlehandedly raising the GNP of Sweden with all of the IKEA furniture we bought) on Christmas Eve, we spent most of Christmas day preparing for a dinner with some similarly "stranded" friends who just left here less than an hour ago. Our one indulgence today was a quick walk to the Nuremberg Altstadt in the late morning to really see the city when it's near-empty. We ducked into St. Sebald's Church, a Romanesque-era structure whose construction began in the 1230's (pictured), paid our respects, and then went to... kind of embarrasing here-- Starbucks, which was mysteriously (miraculously?) open, one of only 2 shops in all of the city with the lights on and people inside. Back to the apartment, more cleaning (me) and cooking (B), and received our guests just past 6:00 local time. A nice, chill evening overall. Tomorrow we sleep in-- yay! Now that's a gift we can use. Merry Christmas everybody!

Cool Nationalism


Spotted in our local electronics/appliance store (around the corner from the Swarovski toaster, post below), a German flag-themed refrigerator (Kühlschrank in these parts). I think it would be kind of neat for the rec room or whatnot myself. This model comes to maybe my chin height, and is considered a "large" fridge in Europe. Now on sale for 1111.00 Euros, about $1560.

Festival Of The Last Minute


Have money to burn? Love toast? Are you, in fact, a complete moron? If you answered "yes" to all three of these questions, pard, do I have the gift for you: A toaster bejewelled with (no joke) actual Swarovski crystals on its frosted glass exterior. That's it, this thing just toasts bread. Price? What's the saying? If you have to ask, you probably can't afford it... but the tag comes to 189.95 Euros, or a shade over $265. Oh well, I imagine this is the exact sort of thing that will get marked down on 12/26.

Monday, December 22, 2008

Grocery Store Fun: Knowing Your Demographic


Germany has its quirks, like a complete and utter lack of 24-hour anything, and nearly everything closed on Sunday. So food shopping can take on a certain degree of urgency and importance. With Christmas a few days away (meaning stores close at 2:00 on Christmas Eve, and stay closed until 12/27), a few friends scheduled to come over on Christmas Day, and the cupboards already bare, we steeled ourselves for an onslaught at the local Martkauf store (which closes at 8:00 M-F).

We're cruising the booze aisles (our first attempt to stock up), and I see this bit of unintentional hilarity: a rough, cheap Vodka with the bonus of... a winter cap attached to the top of the bottle in packaging. Seeing as the only folks who would drink this rotgut are the same types who plan to pass out in the park overnight, I'd say that the marketing department knows their clientele, and knows they can and will use the hat.